🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.