Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
